The Cicadas Are Here. For the Chef Bun Lai, They’re on the Menu.

WOODBRIDGE, CONN. — For Bun Lai, cicadas are mesmerizing to eat, their candy, bitter taste harking back to walnuts, chestnuts and adzuki beans, and their gently crunchy exterior giving approach to creaminess, like a mushy shell crab.

Every approach for cooking them “brings out different tones and shades,” he mentioned.

Mr. Lai, 47, is the chef of Miya’s Sushi, his household’s sustainable sushi restaurant in New Haven, Conn. This summer time, he’s turning his consideration to bugs.

As Brood X cicadas emerge by the billions in coming months, he’ll host a collection of cicada-centric dinners at his farm in close by Woodbridge, the place he lately shifted a part of the restaurant’s operations so he may do out of doors occasions and prepare dinner nearer to nature.

Besides being scrumptious, cicadas align together with his mission to encourage diners to eat in an environmentally acutely aware approach. They’re additionally part of Mr. Lai’s heritage.

During his early childhood in Kyushu, Japan, his summertime reminiscences included “climbing up trees, following the song of the cicada” to catch one, he mentioned. In that nation, cicadas symbolize summer time and rebirth.

Locating massive teams of cicadas could be unpredictable. As a consequence, Mr. Lai’s cicada-centric dinners will usually be introduced at the final minute.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

His mom, Yoshiko Lai, who based Miya’s Sushi in 1982 and grew up in the Kyushu countryside, mentioned that consuming bee larvae was commonplace when she was a baby.

Cicadas are consumed in lots of nations, from Mexico to Thailand to the Democratic Republic of Congo. They are wealthy in protein, cheaper than many meats, land environment friendly and since they emerge in outsize numbers, consuming them doesn’t are inclined to hurt their existence. Mr. Lai’s hope with these dinners is to pay homage to the international prevalence of cicada consumption whereas normalizing insect consuming in the United States, the place the apply is commonly stigmatized.

“On three different continents, people love to eat insects,” he mentioned. Indigenous folks the world over have consumed the cicada. “They didn’t eat it because it was starvation food,” he added, however as a result of it tasted good.

While Mr. Lai loved catching bugs throughout his childhood, he didn’t truly style one till he attended a 2000 exhibit on insect consuming at the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History. He ate steamed rice with crickets. “I thought it was really cool,” he mentioned.

In the summer time of 2013, when Connecticut was a scorching spot for Brood II cicadas, Mr. Lai — recent off a James Beard award nomination for Best Chef: Northeast — declared he could be serving them to diners, roasted and tossed in kelp salt. The announcement was extensively reported in the information media, however usually in a skeptical or disparaging approach. “So while our ear drums and gross-out muscles are getting an extra work-out,” one article learn, “at least we can bask in the knowledge that we won’t go hungry.” On “Saturday Night Live,” Amy Poehler, then an anchor for the present’s “Weekend Update” phase, mentioned Mr. Lai was “trying to get fired” by serving cicadas.

It was a sensationalizing “of something that holds profound meaning to nature, and to other people,” Mr. Lai mentioned.

For one dish, Mr. Lai smokes a string of cicadas over a stay hearth earlier than serving them in a kale salad with beet greens and scallions.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

And whereas there are industrial insect merchandise in the United States, many are geared towards masking the taste and look of the bugs, from cricket brownie combine to Cheddar cricket chips.

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Mr. Lai plans to serve his cicadas of their entire type — uncooked, roasted, smoked or boiled — primarily as a result of that’s how cultures like his personal have loved them.

Because finding cicadas could be troublesome — they have a tendency to cluster in particular areas somewhat than unfold out — Mr. Lai’s dinners (5 – 6, in complete) might be deliberate at the final minute. He lately tried 3 times to reap cicadas in Washington D.C., an epicenter of Brood X, succeeding solely on his remaining try, when he and two associates, Galina Parfenova and Yordanka Evgenieva, picked hundreds of cicadas off timber in Tyson, Va.

On a current Monday at the farm, Mr. Lai had strung a bunch of cicadas like a popcorn garland to softly smoke over a fireplace, a way he realized from Congolese delicacies. These cicadas would go in salad — he in contrast them to bacon bits.

In one other bowl, there was mame gohan, a Japanese rice dish with peas, the place Mr. Lai had substituted peas for cicadas to imbue a nutty taste throughout steaming. He rolled the rice into boiled leaves of swamp rhubarb and reduce them into maki that had been pleasantly bitter. He poured a deeply savory broth of kelp and oyster mushrooms over a small bowl of uncooked cicadas, including a spoonful of crimson miso to make a cicada miso soup. Finally, he formed sushi rice right into a pizza and showered it with mozzarella and Parmesan. Just earlier than it was accomplished baking, he lined the prime with cicadas, which offered a pepperoni-like crunch.

Cicadas are served uncooked in a crimson miso soup made with a seaweed- and mushroom-based broth.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Mr. Lai isn’t the solely chef placing cicadas on the menu. Sean Sherman, who will open Owamni by The Sioux Chef in Minneapolis in June, has been finding out cicadas as an Indigenous meals supply. When he is ready to discover cicadas, he’ll flip them into preparations like a crunchy topping akin to pepitas made by caramelizing the bugs in maple syrup, or a sauce with cicadas, chiles and agave. At El Rey in Philadelphia, the chef Dionicio Jimenez, who grew up consuming bugs in Puebla, Mexico, has served cicada salsa, or blended the bugs into potato soup so as to add creamy, nutty taste.

Home cooks can put together cicadas, too — Mr. Lai advised roasting them, or sautéing them in olive oil. The most secure wager is to reap cicadas in parks, he added, the place there may be much less threat of lead contamination in the floor. They’ve spent years underground, so harvest them in an space free from pesticides.

While cicadas are a sustainable meals, Mr. Lai can also be desirous about focusing on invasive insect species, like locusts. The cicadas are a gateway, he mentioned. He’s capitalizing on Brood X’s second in the solar to broaden folks’s minds about consuming extra biologically numerous meals.

Ms. Lai, 77, who nonetheless cooks at the restaurant, mentioned that when she opened Miya’s Sushi she was instructed that Americans wouldn’t eat uncooked fish. Now, sushi is ubiquitous. She believes the identical is true for bugs.  Like sushi in the 1980s, they’re a centuries-old meals custom that invitations derision in the United States.

“I had confidence” again then, she mentioned, that American consuming habits would change. And now, so does Mr. Lai.

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