The Perilous Hunt for Coconut Crabs on a Remote Polynesian Island

We meet Adams Maihota exterior his home at the hours of darkness. A crab hunter, he wears white plastic sandals, board shorts, a tank prime and a cummerbund to carry lengths of twine. He picks a sprig of untamed mint and tucks it behind his ear for good luck.

The photographer Eric Guth and I observe Mr. Maihota’s blazing headlamp into the forest in quest of coconut crabs, identified regionally as kaveu. They are the biggest land invertebrate on this planet, and, boiled or stir-fried with coconut milk, they’re scrumptious. Since the cessation of phosphate mining right here in 1966, they’ve turn into one in every of Makatea’s largest exports.

Coconut crabs (Birgus latro) are the biggest land invertebrate on this planet and appear completely tailored to an island filled with holes. (They can climb absolutely anything.)

It’s ankle-breaking terrain. We negotiate the roots of pandanus timber and unending feo, a Polynesian time period for the previous reef rocks that stick up in all places. Vegetation slaps our faces and legs, and our pores and skin turns into slick with sweat.

The traps, which Mr. Maihota laid earlier that week, encompass notched coconuts tied to timber with fibers from their very own husks. When we attain one, we flip off our lights to strategy quietly. Then, Mr. Maihota pounces.

A second later, he stands up with a sky-blue crab pedaling its ten legs in broad circles. Even with its fleshy stomach curled below the remainder of its physique, the animal is for much longer than the hunter’s hand.

A crab’s pincers can simply break fingers, so earlier than putting them in his pack, Mr. Maihota grabs some twine from his cummerbund and wraps the animal to immobilize it.Each one is like a little escape artist. “He knows how to undo it all,” says Mr. Maihota, “and after that, he will pinch you in the back.”

Makatea, a part of the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia, sits within the South Pacific about 150 miles northeast of Tahiti. It’s a small uplifted coral atoll, barely 4 and a half miles throughout at its widest level, with steep limestone cliffs that rise as excessive as 250 ft straight out of the ocean.

About two-thirds of Makatea continues to be major forest, an ecosystem that’s more and more uncommon within the Tuamotu Archipelago.

From 1908 till 1966, Makatea was house to the biggest industrial mission in French Polynesia: Eleven million tons of phosphate-rich sand have been dug out and exported for agriculture, prescription drugs and munitions. When the mining ceased, the inhabitants fell from round three,000 to lower than 100. Today, there are about 80 full-time residents. Most of them stay within the central a part of the island, near the ruins of the previous mining city, which is now rotting into the jungle.

Makatea’s previous mining city has fallen into disrepair.

One-third of Makatea consists of a maze of greater than a million deep, round holes, generally known as the extraction zone — a legacy of the mining operations. Crossing into that space, particularly at evening, when coconut crabs are energetic, will be lethal. Many of the holes are over 100 ft deep, and the rock ledges between them are slender. Still, some hunters do it anyway, intent on reaching the wealthy crab habitat on the opposite facet.

The extraction zone, considered from above. During the mining period, laborers dug phosphate wealthy sand out of those naturally occurring limestone cylinders. Now they stand empty and pose a nice danger to anybody making an attempt to cross via the world.

One night earlier than sundown, a hunter named Teiki Ah-scha meets us in a notoriously harmful space referred to as Le Bureau, so named for the mining buildings that was once there. Wearing flip-flops, Mr. Ah-scha trots across the holes and balances on their edges. When he goes looking throughout the extraction zone, he comes house in the dead of night with a sack filled with crabs on his again.

Teiki Ah-scha is snug sufficient within the harmful surroundings to stroll round in flip-flops.A set of cavernous holes.Teiki Ah-scha skirts the sting of the once-active phosphate extraction zone.

Mr. Maihota, too, used to hunt this fashion — and he tells me that he misses it. But ever since his spouse fell into a shallow gap a few months earlier than our go to in 2019, she has forbidden him to cross the extraction zone. Instead, he units traps across the village.

Coconut crabs are adventurous omnivores. They eat fruits, nuts, vegetation and carrion, in addition to the occasional chook or rat.

Coconut crabs inhabit a broad vary, from the Seychelles within the Indian Ocean to the Pitcairn Islands within the southern Pacific Ocean. They have been a part of native diets lengthy earlier than the mining period. The largest specimens, “les monstres,” will be the size of your arm and stay for a century.

There hasn’t been a inhabitants examine on Makatea, so the crab’s conservation standing is unclear — although at evening, rattling throughout the rocks, they appear to be in all places.

The pastel hues of a coconut crab belie its terrific energy; these pincers are stronger than the biting power of most land predators.Crabs are bought on the native grocery retailer, however they can be used as forex. Five average-size crabs earn about $50 in retailer credit score.

When we catch crabs that aren’t authorized — both females or these lower than six centimeters throughout the carapace — Mr. Maihota lets them go.

If the islanders should not cautious, he says, the crabs may not be round for future generations. In many locations throughout the Indo-Pacific, the animals have been hunted to the purpose of extirpation, or native extinction.

Reretini Viritua wanders via the forest close to her house to set coconut crab traps.Crab traps are constituted of fallen coconuts.

Makatea is at a crossroads. Half a century after the primary mining period, there’s a pending proposal for extra phosphate extraction. Though the island’s mayor and different supporters cite the financial advantages of labor and income, opponents say that new industrial exercise would destroy the island, together with its fledgling tourism trade.

“We cannot make her suffer again,” one girl tells me, invoking the island as a dwelling being.

Makatea’s solely port, referred to as Temao, was constructed throughout the mining period. Remnants of the crane and loading docks nonetheless stand.

Still, it’s arduous to make a dwelling right here. “There is no work,” Mr. Maihota says, as we stand below the celebrities and drip sweat onto the forest flooring. He doesn’t need to speak in regards to the mine. The earlier month, he shipped out 70 coconut crabs for $10 every to his consumers in Tahiti.

In common looking spots, hunters say the crabs are smaller or fewer, however hunters rely on the revenue and no person has the total image of how the inhabitants is doing general.

Coconut crabs should be rigorously certain and gently packed in moist leaves to make sure their survival on their voyage to Tahiti.

We go to Mr. Maihota’s backyard the subsequent morning the place the crabs are sequestered in particular person bins to maintain them from attacking one another. He’ll feed them coconut and water to purge their techniques, since, within the wild, they eat all method of meals, together with carrion.

Captive crabs are saved separate to guard them from one another. Hunters feed them coconut and water to purge their techniques earlier than sending them to their consumers.

By daylight, their shells are rainbows of purple, white, orange, together with many shades of blue. For now not less than — with out mining, and whereas harvests are nonetheless sustainable — they appear completely tailored to Makatea, holes and all.

The extraction zone at sundown.The colour of some crabs matches that of the sky, although they flip pink when they’re cooked.

Eric Guth is a documentary photographer primarily based within the Pacific Northwest. You can observe his work on Instagram.

Jennifer Kingsley is a Canadian author and journalist. You can observe her work on Twitter and Instagram.

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