High Jewelry Designers Go for Stacking in a Big Way

In latest years there was the ring stack and the wrist stack. And the layering necklace craze often called #neckmess.

But now jewellery designers are working a maximalist stacking development, putting stones atop stones in a single piece of jewellery, creating designs with severe wow components in whole carat counts — and costs.

Such creations with doubled and generally even tripled-up stones had been featured in July on the excessive jewellery collections, from manufacturers like Dior, Boucheron and Cartier.

Cartier, for instance, introduced the Phaan ring with a four.01-carat rose-cut diamond all however hidden under a eight.20-carat ruby. Jacqueline Karachi, director of Cartier’s excessive jewellery creation studio, stated the pairing created an phantasm that the diamond gave “depth and intensity to the ruby’s color, fooling our senses.”

Louis Vuitton’s La Star Du Nord diamond suite — a part of the excessive jewellery assortment commemorating the style home’s bicentennial — featured a 10.07-carat diamond lower in the home’s hallmark star motif and positioned atop the gem-set knot of a double-strand necklace set with about 850 diamonds. The stone additionally will be eliminated and stacked onto a V-shaped diamond-set ring.

A diamond necklace from Boghossian’s Kissing assortment with gem stones and rock crystal.

Roberto Boghossian, managing accomplice on the Geneva jeweler Boghossian, stated the artwork of stacking stones advanced from jewellery’s conventional inlay approach, in which a part of a gemstone is lower away to accommodate one other stone.

About 10 years in the past his firm developed a stacking technique it known as Kissing, and, Mr. Boghossian stated, matching stones for a Kissing piece can take weeks and even months, as proportion, depth, top and colour all need to be thought of. But the advanced balancing act, he added, in the end “brings refinedness, sophistication and a lot of suppleness” to the creation.

After initially specializing in rings and earrings, the home not too long ago expanded into Kissing necklaces, resembling a statement-making piece set with a 267.90-carat Boulder opal, 4 extra Boulder opals totaling 155.15 carats, aquamarine beads and a mixture of inlaid and Kissing diamonds, sapphires and turquoise. (Boulder opals, because the title suggests are mined from ironstone boulders.)

Another new creation is a choker of rock crystal hyperlinks set with 5 stones: a sapphire, aquamarine, Paraiba and inexperienced and pink tourmaline, each paired with a diamond.

The costs — like these of just about all of the excessive jewellery creations proven in July — can be found solely on software. But Mr. Boghossian famous that Kissing designs, like many prime quality jewels, “can reach significant prices when combining rare gems, depending on their quality and sizes.”

Rock crystal has appeared incessantly in stone stacking jewellery, as its transparency heightens the layered impact and it has a up to date look. Boucheron’s Holographique excessive jewellery assortment, introduced in July in Paris, featured a futuristic-looking necklace of rock crystal slices, every sprayed with molten titanium and silver for a holographic impact.

The piece, which the home stated required greater than 600 hours of labor, was trimmed in three,675 diamonds and topped with a 20.21-carat yellow sapphire. It was complemented with a matching bracelet, stacked with a 14.33-carat pink tourmaline, and a ring, with a four.61-carat blue-green tourmaline.

A Boucheron white gold ring with diamonds, a four.61-carat oval blue-green tourmaline and a holographic rock crystal.

At the British jeweler Boodles, the Havana ring in its newest travel-inspired assortment featured a three.03-carat yellow-orange pear-shape diamond encircled by shiny orange enamel and rock crystal positioned over diamond-set rays of gold. Rebecca Hawkins, the model’s head of design, stated the rock crystal layer gave the design “a very tactile and curvy feel” but additionally muted the smaller diamonds’ shine, permitting the middle stone to dominate.

The London jewellery home David Morris likes to make use of rose-cut diamonds for stacking as a result of the lower, in addition to being a signature, heightens a stone’s transparency and contains a flat base.

In latest years, the home’s senior designer Devyn Downing stated, the home has set rose cuts over white diamonds, often pear formed, so their flashes of sunshine are mirrored by the highest stones. He in contrast the consequence to trying by a kaleidoscope: “It’s a bit magical — there’s something whimsical and beautiful about it.”

White and pink gold Duchesse earrings by David Morris with two rose-cut diamonds of two.84 and three.09 carats and brilliant-cut pink diamonds.

Pink diamond stacks now have joined the David Morris repertoire: a new pair of Duchesse earrings layered rose cuts over brilliant-cut pink diamonds for much more colourful reflections, Mr. Downing stated, “creating a tiny world under each rose cut.”

Stacking colours has lengthy been a hallmark at Pomellato, so the Italian jeweler marked the 20th anniversary of its signature Nudo assortment by doubling and tripling coloured gem stones. Among the results had been positive layers of sky blue topaz, turquoise and mother-of-pearl mixed for a muted blue whereas clear white topaz was fused to mother-of-pearl for a creamy look.

A Cindy Chao dragonfly brooch with diamonds and emeralds.

Jewelers say one of many biggest challenges in stacking is attaining a commonplace millimeters-thin spacing between stones, to keep away from scratches. But the gaps additionally add dimension to designs — as in Cindy Chao’s new sculptural dragonfly brooch, with massive diamonds and emeralds sitting above a mélange of pavé diamonds, tsavorites, sapphires, demantoids and color-changing alexandrites.

The gaps among the many massive and pavé stones in the end created tender, blended colours, stated Ms. Chao, relying on how the viewer seems to be on the gem. “You will see a lot of green and blue through the blank spaces,” the Taiwanese designer stated, “while other times you’ll only see a very bright spectrum of light reflecting off the top layer diamonds, which amplifies the blue and green tints below.”

Kaleidoscope certainly.