In India, 4 Watch Companies Push Ahead

At first look, the prospects for watch gross sales in India look modest at greatest. The common month-to-month revenue in 2019 was $177. Import duties on watch elements might be as a lot as 50 p.c of their worth. And retail shops in lots of cities are costly, whereas in cities, they are often restricted to out of doors markets.

But the nation has greater than 1.three billion residents. So though solely 10 to 15 p.c of the inhabitants may be capable of afford what the Swiss watch trade would categorize as a reasonable piece, that pool of potential consumers is “still bigger than many countries put together,” mentioned Gaurav Mehta, founding father of the Jaipur Watch Company.

In 2019, watch gross sales topped 33 billion rupees, or $451.eight million. And entrepreneurs had been quickly creating new manufacturers, rising on-line companies to match what they anticipated can be rising demand.

Their efforts meshed effectively with the nationalist themes of the nation’s ruling Bharatiya Janata Party, led by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. The authorities’s “clarion call for ‘Make in India’ has been well received by the majority population, where everyone is beginning to look for homegrown alternatives for everyday products,” together with watches, Nirupesh Joshi, co-founder of the Bangalore Watch Company, wrote in an electronic mail.

The on-line operations had been vital to the survival of many watch companies over the last 12 months and a half of lockdowns and restrictions. And, now that about half of the nation’s inhabitants has at the least some entry to the web, “e-commerce is solving the distribution problem” the trade has lengthy confronted, mentioned Manoj Menon, head of analysis and client analyst at ICICI Securities in Mumbai.

India does have a historical past of homegrown watch manufacturers. In the 1960s, HMT Watches, manufactured by the government-owned Hindustan Machine Tools, produced common mechanical fashions just like the Janata and the Kanchan till it closed in 2014. In the 1980s, Hyderabad Allwyn, a enterprise operated by the Hyderabad state authorities, labored with Seiko to make mechanical and quartz watches, together with the Trendy; it closed in 1995.

Also within the ’80s, the multinational conglomerate now referred to as Tata Group teamed with a authorities company to introduce Titan Watches, which has offered greater than 150 million timepieces since its founding. It dominates present native gross sales, with about 65 p.c of the market, in response to Abneesh Roy, government vice chairman of analysis for Edelweiss Financial Securities in Mumbai.

As for the longer term, “smartwatches is a market which is waiting to explode,” Mr. Menon mentioned, “provided some smart entrepreneur finds the sweet spot of a lower price, higher value, which is going to happen.”

Here, a have a look at 4 manufacturers from round India which were getting loads of consideration for his or her approaches to cheap timepieces.

The Mesmerizing Cow Art — Pichwai Watch from Jaipur Watch Company.

Jaipur Watch Company


In 2013, Mr. Mehta glued one paisa — an outdated Indian coin formed like a doughnut, full with heart gap — onto a watch dial, and all of the sudden pals needed to purchase it. So he offered his automobile and borrowed cash from an old-fashioned pal, utilizing the money to begin a enterprise.

Today, Mr. Mehta, 38, has 14 workers, together with a designer who interprets his concepts and eight watchmakers in an atelier in Bangalore. It was shut for almost three weeks within the spring as “staff members came down with Covid and we didn’t want to take a chance,” he wrote in a WhatsApp message. The operation restarted in May, and the complete crew is again now.

The enterprise has six collections, for women and men and with costs beginning on the equal of about $200, in addition to particular editions, like a 43-millimeter gold-plated watch celebrating polo and Jodhpur royalty with a Swiss quartz motion modified to a bounce hour disc. There are also bespoke timepieces, together with a 40-millimeter 18-karat gold Swiss computerized referred to as the Guilloché Watch, priced at round $7,600. (The model sells 1,700 to 1,800 watches a 12 months, Mr. Mehta mentioned.)

The instances, dials, arms and leather-based straps all are made in India. Movements come from a spread of suppliers, together with Miyota in Japan in addition to Ronda (quartz) and ETA (computerized), each based mostly in Switzerland. The watches are assembled within the firm workshop in Bangalore and shipped from its Jaipur workplace.

Mr. Mehta intends to check the United States market, utilizing Kickstarter for the primary time later this 12 months to finance a 300-piece assortment of rectangular chrome steel flip watches — six designs that may characteristic a classic HMT hand-winding motion restored by his artisans in Bangalore. And subsequent summer season he plans to open the primary model boutique in New Delhi’s modern Khan Market, as, he mentioned, 60 p.c of the corporate’s gross sales are from that metropolis.

The Maximum City 2015 from Aiqon was impressed by Mumbai’s Victorian-era prepare station.



Bollywood, Big Ben and Mumbai’s Victorian-era prepare station are among the many issues which have impressed Chinmay Shah’s watch designs since he began Aiqon (pronounced “icon”) in 2013.

The former analysis analyst mentioned he needed “to design something that was beautiful and compact, which was real, which was not designed on a computer — with edges, curves and shine and a matte finish — or a roughness — or a smoothness and colors.”

But creating watches turned out to be tougher than he had anticipated. “Getting the suppliers and getting the samples made, you like something, then you don’t like something and you change your specifications and so on. It takes more time,” he mentioned, including that he didn’t start gross sales till 2015.

Chinmay Shah of Aiqon, who mentioned he needed “to design something that was beautiful and compact, which was real, which was not designed on a computer — with edges, curves and shine and a matte finish — or a roughness — or a smoothness and colors.”Credit…Aiqon

Mr. Shah, 39, works alone. He often attracts designs to scale and sends them to 2 Hong Kong producers, who make the elements and assemble the quartz timepieces of their factories in close by Shenzhen. The completed watches — he now has 10 fashions, all powered by Japanese quartz actions — are offered on Aiqon’s web site and thru Flipkart, an internet retailer based mostly in India. He wouldn’t disclose his gross sales.

Aiqon timepieces are extra intricate than they appear. Consider the subdial on the 44-millimeter chrome steel Movie Meister 1, which sells for about $40. Instead of exhibiting seconds or functioning as a 24-hour counter, it exhibits the time in Mumbai’s Bollywood, Cannes and Hollywood. Then there may be the 43-millimeter rose gold and black ion-plated Swiss quartz chronograph ($130).

Early subsequent 12 months, he mentioned, he intends so as to add computerized actions to some present types so he can “sell fewer watches at a higher price.”

The cricket-themed Outfield mannequin from the Bangalore Watch Company.

Bangalore Watch Company


Nirupesh Joshi already was a Swiss watch collector when he and his spouse, Mercy Amalraj, determined in 2017 to make use of their financial savings to make watches. But they describe their motivation, at the least partially, as patriotic. “We wanted to tell stories from India through respectable quality watches,” Mr. Joshi mentioned.

The enterprise now has seven workers and quite a lot of freelancers, with Mr. Joshi, 40, dealing with design and firm operations and Ms. Amalraj, 40, managing buyer expertise. Parts come from suppliers in Hong Kong and India; the automated and quartz actions from Japan and Switzerland. The watches — about 1,000 are offered annually, they mentioned — are assembled in Bangalore and distributed from an organization workplace in that metropolis.

In 2017, Nirupesh Joshi and Mercy Amalraj determined to make use of their financial savings to make watches.Credit…Bangalore Watch Company

Mr. Joshi mentioned the dearth of watchmaking expertise amongst India’s artisans continued to be a problem for the enterprise. “There is no watchmaking school, so it’s very hard for us to find people that we believe can help us to put together watches of decidedly high quality,” he mentioned.

The firm web site sells 4 males’s collections of computerized watches, together with a pilot’s mannequin, and 5 Swiss quartz fashions designed for ladies. Unconventional components had been added to some fashions — just like the bezel on cricket-themed watches such because the Outfield mannequin (about $775), which might be rotated manually to trace a cricket recreation’s bowling overs in a someday 50-over or a Twenty20-over recreation in addition to to function as a conventional 50-minute timer. After all, Mr. Joshi mentioned, “cricket is almost a religion in this country.”

Horpa sells three Japanese quartz-powered collections, two for ladies and one for males, together with the C1SB4505.



After working in watch outlets in India and Aruba for almost 15 years, Rajeev Asrani determined to begin an internet watch firm in 2017, creating its identify by enjoying with the phrases horology (hor) and fervour (pa).

Now Mr. Asrani, 41, sells three Japanese quartz-powered collections — one for males and two for ladies — as a result of “for any brand to create a strong identity, the portfolio must serve everyone,” he mentioned.

Rajeev Asrani of Horpa creates the designs, experimenting with colours, like those on the C1SB4505.Credit…Horpa

He creates the designs, experimenting with colours — like orange for the dial ring, hand accents and date aperture in opposition to the black dial of the C1SB4505 ($225) — in an effort to distinguish the model in India’s crowded watch market.

Friends and household helped fund his start-up, however now gross sales assist the enterprise, he mentioned. Two native freelance designers flip Mr. Asrani’s sketches into C.A.D. fashions for his Indian producers. He has an meeting contract with an after-sales operation in Mumbai and distributes watches from Horpa’s headquarters. He wouldn’t disclose firm gross sales.

Mr. Asrani mentioned he had been experimenting with a mechanical watch and supposed so as to add a ladies’s quartz assortment, however the pandemic had disrupted progress. With “talks of a third wave as well in India,” he wrote in a current WhatsApp message, it’s “extremely difficult to plan anything.”

Buyers in India are Horpa’s largest prospects as a result of the watches should not promoted overseas. But then, Mr. Asrani mentioned, the native market alternative is large enough for him. “India is 29 different countries in one country,” he mentioned. “In every city, people are different, the language changes, the taste differs.”