Fall Restaurant Preview: A Reboot for New York

New York City’s fall restaurant season will successfully be the primary in two years, and although Covid is a wild card, cooks and restaurateurs are forging forward with openings and reopenings, usually resuming initiatives which were on maintain. Ambitious eating places within the coronary heart of Manhattan from Union Square to 59th Street, like Le Pavillon and Iris, have been up and working, with new locations set to affix them. Prominent gamers like Danny Meyer, Laurent Tourondel, Ignacio Mattos and Franklin Becker are increasing their portfolios. Rick Bayless of Chicago, and Will Beckett and Huw Gott of London’s Hawksmoor are all making New York debuts. New steakhouses are nonetheless arriving, and Indian meals, each fast-casual and formal, continues to get recent consideration. Despite the lack of some marquee names, there are indicators of life in Hudson Yards. High-end sushi bars preserve opening. And to date, regardless of the challenges of staffing and getting provides delivered, the openings look like occurring on time — a departure from previous years, when many had been delayed for months. That could also be an index of how keen the house owners are to get again to enterprise.

Here are essentially the most intriguing and high-profile openings scheduled for the approaching weeks:

Bret Csencsitz, left, and the chef Ron Paprocki will open Gotham subsequent month.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Gotham

Too many locations fell sufferer to the pandemic; find out how to compensate for losses like Uncle Boons, Aquagrill, Jewel Bako and Pegu Club? At one time, Gotham Bar & Grill was on that record. False alarm. Bret Csencsitz, a associate since 2011, took on the mission to reserve it. He discovered a enterprise associate, bought a brand new lease and didn’t must look far for a kitchen chief, selling the pastry chef, Ron Paprocki, to government chef to arrange simplified fare with much less dairy, extra greens and an emphasis on components moderately than strategies. As for the remainder of the employees, Mr. Csencsitz mentioned folks had been knocking on the door trying for work. James Biber, the designer, is making the entry extra welcoming, and including an intimate lounge up entrance. “You’ll recognize the room,” Mr. Csencsitz mentioned. “We’re honoring the past.” Still, he did trim again the title a bit.

12 East 12th Street, Greenwich Village, mid-October.

Rick Bayless brings a fast-casual torta and tlayuda restaurant to NoMad.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Tortazo

Just as New York hailed the long-delayed arrival of Wolfgang Puck a couple of years again, we are able to lastly welcome Rick Bayless, the Mexican meals grasp, who got here to prominence in Chicago within the 1980s. He’s tiptoeing into Manhattan with a vibrant fast-casual spot serving tortas and Oaxacan tlayudas, based mostly on the one he opened final 12 months in Chicago. Ordering will be digital or on the counter; there are waiters for serving and clearing.

1123 Broadway (25th Street), NoMad, Sept. 15.

A new growth, Manhattan West, brings a bevy of eating decisions.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Restaurants at Manhattan West

Once a growth like Manhattan West is about in movement, it stays heading in the right direction. It moved forward all through the pandemic, and is formally opening on Sept. 28, in a group of workplace and residential towers between Hudson Yards and the Moynihan Train Hall. Danny Meyer’s Ci Siamo, an ode to Italy with the chef Hillary Sterling in cost, takes a starring function, with an expansive second-floor room seating 120 and an out of doors terrace that sits above a big Daily Provisions retailer. The bar and lounge, the place gnocchi fritto is a specialty, move into the eating room. Ms. Sterling’s menu will characteristic pastas, salads of bitter greens, complete trout with a garlic-and-bread stuffing and pork Milanese. Across the plaza from Ci Siamo is Zou Zou’s, an expression of the Mediterranean and the Middle East executed in intricate tile and woodwork, with an open kitchen run by Madeline Sperling, who labored on the NoMad. The Manhattan West complicated can be anchored by a number of enterprises from Sam Nazarian’s firm C3: the Citizens meals corridor, with rows of grab-and-go stands; Casa Dani, richly appointed in toffee-colored tile and leather-based for the Spanish chef Dani Garcia; and Katsuya, the sprawling New York department of a worldwide assortment of contemporary Japanese eating places.

Manhattan West, Ninth to 10th Avenues, 31st to 33rd Streets, Midtown, Sept. 28.

Hawksmoor is within the meeting corridor of the United Charities Building.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Hawksmoor

This trans-Atlantic consultant of a serious group of conventional chop homes from Britain was about able to open when the pandemic hit in early March 2020. The lovely setting, with a vaulted ceiling, is within the meeting corridor of the United Charities Building, an 1892 construction that’s now a National Historic Landmark. “We love heritage,” mentioned Huw Gott, an proprietor. Menu highlights embody East Coast seafood (no Dover sole), Yorkshire pudding and American beef from smaller producers. “The key is the charcoal grill,” mentioned Matt Bernero, the manager chef, previously at Minetta Tavern. This would be the place to attempt the English glowing wines you will have heard about.

109 East 22nd Street, Gramercy, Sept. eight.

The specialty of the home is within the title of the restaurant Skirt Steak.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Skirt Steak

Save room for dessert at this steakhouse. The array of pies and desserts like coconut and chocolate displayed on a rolling cart present loads of decisions to finish a dinner from the chef Laurent Tourondel’s unusually centered menu. Mr. Tourondel, who already runs the favored L’Amico lower than a block away, will serve solely grilled American Wagyu skirt steak, with a inexperienced peppercorn béarnaise, salad and fries for $28; a cauliflower steak is an choice. “You’ll know what you’re getting,” he mentioned. The room has an enormous central bar, communal tables and outside seating for 30.

835 Avenue of the Americas (29th Street), Chelsea, Sept. 14.

Surbhi Sahni of Tagmo.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Tagmo

In the entrance of this new addition to the rising seaport district is an array of Indian sweets that the chef and proprietor, Surbhi Sahni, bought earlier than including savories to her on-line supply firm. At her new restaurant, she’s going to characteristic homestyle, principally vegetarian fare in a colourful setting.

226 Front Street (Peck Slip), Seaport District, Sept. 17.

Cha Kee

Second-floor eating places have gotten a factor: Note Le Pavillon, Ci Siamo and now this diner-style Chinese spot the place the well-known Akiko Thurnauer is on the wok. She’s turning out Chinese consolation meals with Japanese touches, together with rice rolls and salads. There’s additionally heartier fare, like lobster with fluffy egg white and burned garlic oil; braised oxtail, with daikon and crispy rice; Wagyu beef ho enjoyable; and soft-shell-crab fried rice. A floor ground crudo bar is coming later.

43 Mott Street (Pell Street), Chinatown, Sept. 10.

At Great Jones Distillery Company, the whiskies served on the restaurant are made within the subsequent room.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Restaurant at Great Jones Distillery Company

At the extremely polished eating room — all darkish wooden and black leather-based — on this Manhattan distillery, likelihood is your manhattan might be made with one of many three home whiskies. Dinner from the open kitchen — led by the manager chef Adam Raksin, previously of Per Se and the Lambs Club — will probably characteristic French onion soup, Caesar salad, a burger, tataki-grilled Cornish hen and braised bacon over creamy polenta. A bar and lounge with an all-day menu is on the second ground.

686 Broadway (Great Jones Street), NoHo, Oct. 14.

Tadashi Yoshida of Yoshino New York.Credit…Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Yoshino New York

With simply 12 comfortable chairs, not stools, the chef Tadashi Yoshida will put together sushi omakase dinners with roughly six appetizers, 12 items of sushi and dessert, for $400. The chef, who adopted his father behind the sushi counter, relocated his father’s restaurant to Nagoya, a metropolis between Tokyo and Osaka. It closed in 2019. He mentioned he takes liberties together with his preparations, influenced by his work in a French restaurant. He is thought for his binchotan grilled mackerel.

342 Bowery (Bond Street), NoHo, Sept. 23.

Kaiseki Room by Yamada

Isao Yamada, who was on the counter of David Bouley’s Brushstroke from 2010 till 2018, is opening this formal 20-seat tasting-menu restaurant that takes its inspiration from Kyoto’s tea ceremony. The restaurant, executed in refined pure wooden, is a part of the Group, which additionally owns Omakase Room by Mitsu.

145 West 53rd Street, Midtown, September.

Jack & Charlie’s No. 118

The names of Jack Kreindler and Charlie Berns, the founders of the ‘21’ Club (closed as of now), have been adopted for a conventional, warmly embellished 110-seat room within the West Village unaffiliated with ‘21.’ The chef, Ed Cotton, a Daniel alumnus, will serve basic fare: raw-bar seafood, home made pasta, seafood and wood-fired steaks. On the drinks record, martinis take middle stage.

118 Greenwich Avenue (13th Street), West Village, mid-October.

Lodi

Having taken over the previous Bouchon Bakery in Rockefeller Center, Ignacio Mattos of Estela and Altro Paradiso is opening a classy however laid-back all-day homage to Italy serving breakfast, lunch and dinner in a bar and lounge setting, with seating exterior on the piazza — all proper, plaza.

1 Rockefeller Plaza (49th Street), Midtown, September.

Empellón Taqueria

This spinoff of the chef Alex Stupak’s West Village taqueria might be within the slowly evolving Waterline Square growth on the southern fringe of the Upper West Side. It will dwarf the unique, with 60 indoor seats and 60 exterior, however will supply an identical menu of tacos and queso fundido.

645 West 59th Street, three Waterline Square, Upper West Side, October.

The coveted pizzas from Una Pizza Napoletana return subsequent month to the Lower East Side.Credit…An Rong Xu for The New York Times

Una Pizza Napoletana

Anthony Mangieri, who has been baking his much-loved pizzas since 1996, is reopening his Manhattan location, which briefly closed final 12 months. During the pandemic he has made his pizzas in New Jersey.

175 Orchard Street (East Houston Street), Lower East Side, October.

Cherry on Top

Cerise Zelenetz, an artist and illustrator, has put the English translation of her first title on this Parisian-accented wine bar. On a low rooftop in Bushwick, Brooklyn, it has seating indoors and out. Her associate is Mohan Jumar, an proprietor of OddFellows Ice Cream, the corporate whose former manufacturing facility homes the wine bar. Small plates by Jordan Anderson of the restaurant Sami & Susu accompany pure wines.

379 Suydam Street (Wyckoff Avenue), Bushwick, Brooklyn, Sept. 9.

The fried rooster sandwich at Rowdy Rooster.Credit…Lanna Apisukh for The New York Times

On the Horizon

Here’s a sampling of what’s coming later: Late October will welcome Tyler Kord’s new No. 7 Restaurant, moved to Prospect Heights, Brooklyn. In November, Torrisi Italian Specialties, now referred to as Torrisi Deli and Restaurant, will relocate to the previous Chefs Club area within the Puck Building on Mulberry Street; what was Les Halles will reopen as La Brasserie; and a brand new Brooklyn Chop House with 650 seats and a 150-seat rooftop is coming to Times Square. Soon, Unapologetic Foods, the restaurant group run by Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya that began in Greenwich Village with Rahi and in Queens with Adda, might be opening Rowdy Rooster, a spiced fried-chicken spot, and Kebabwala for meats and extra on a stick, each within the East Village. In November, their Masalawala will debut in Park Slope, Brooklyn. December will see the arrival of the uptown department of Frenchette in Rockefeller Center.

Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and Pinterest. Get common updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe ideas, cooking ideas and procuring recommendation.