New York Fashion Week: Day 5

There are many issues to contemplate when turning an individual right into a floral shrub.

For the designer Thom Browne, the transformation started with a cape with exaggerated shoulders, from which lots of of plastic flowers cascaded to the ground. The flowers, in numerous shades of Mr. Browne’s signature grey, have been hand-applied. Models wore the capes in the beginning of Saturday’s present, sitting on concrete pedestals in a backyard created by Mr. Browne because the setting for his present, which explored themes of time, decay and rebirth. (If this sounds very critical, take into account that it opened with two folks using penny-farthing bicycles whereas sporting clear wire horse heads.)

For his shrub folks, Mr. Browne wished to increase the flower camouflage to their faces — the one uncovered elements of their our bodies — and hair. So he introduced on the make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench, a longtime collaborator, and the hairstylist James Pecis.

Ms. Ffrench created stencils for airbrushing florals onto the fashions’ faces, impressed by the gildings on the capes, whereas Mr. Pecis designed hairpieces utilizing the identical plastic flowers.

The airbrushing was significantly spectacular, resembling Post Malone-esque full-face tattoos from afar. But up shut, each petal was outlined; just like the cape, they have been rendered in numerous shades of grey, however in contrast to the cape, there was a bit extra selection, with hibiscus flowers and monstera leaves making appearances on chins and cheeks.

Later within the present, fashions wore extra summary make-up that regarded like dried clay dabbed on their pores and skin, impressed, the label stated, by Greco-Roman statuary. But the floral make-up was memorable for the way it complemented the fits that the caped fashions finally revealed, which have been uneven and incomplete — lacking arms or short-sleeved on one facet.

Mr. Browne has a singular potential to create one thing rigorously structured but barely off-kilter — the floral faces have been no completely different.